wines made in the region of the Mosel or even the Rhine. Start with an entry-level wine from a reputable producer such as Hugel, Trimbach, or Domaines Schlumberger, which will cost $20 to $25. For a glimpse of exactly how good things can get, check out the glorious Trimbach Clos Sainte Hune ($200) or the remarkable Grand Cru Clos Windsbuhl from Domaine Zind Humbrecht ($85). WASHINGTON STATE: The Columbia Valley’s warm days and cool nights provide the perfect storm for world-class Riesling. First among equals is Eroica ($20), a joint venture between Chateau St. Michelle and famed Mosel vintner Ernst Loosen. The rich and assertive wine has vivid fruit notes and crisp acidity. Looking for a real value? Try Hogue Cellars, either in the regular version ($10) or the Genesis bottling ($14). THE FINGER LAKES: Experts often compare the climate of this American Viticultural Area in central New York to Germany’s Rhine region.Konstantin Frank, a Ukrainian immigrant, pioneered this area when he founded Vinifera Wine Cellars in 1962. The Dr. Frank Dry Riesling ($18) is reliable. Also look for Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard, Ravines Wine Cellars, Red Newt Cellars, and Anthony Road Wine Co. They may require an Internet search, but they’re worth it. AUSTRALIA: When Americans think of Australian wine, they tend to visualize massive, full-bodied reds such as Shiraz or Grenache-Shiraz-Mourvedre blends. One of the country’s bestkept secrets is the stunning Riesling made throughout South Australia, particularly in the Clare and Eden valleys. In the latter, Julius Riesling from Henschke ($40) and Bin 51 by Penfolds ($25) have the best pedigree. Other good bets, each priced around $14 to $17, include Pikes Traditionale Riesling, Clare Valley; Pewsey Vale Dry Riesling, Eden Valley; and the Yalumba Y Series, South Australia. A note on food pairings: Many accessibly priced Rieslings make ideal companions for a late-afternoon rendezvous around the pool and are well suited to light appetizers or finger foods. As you ascend the quality scale, wines from cold climates match well with seafood dishes, because the prominent acidity complements the flavors of fish and shellfish. The best examples pair with white-meat dishes of chicken, veal, or pork in complex sauces. Because of the high acidity levels, the top Rieslings age well, and some of them—if purchased young and stored properly—can easily outlive their owners. Yalumba’s winery, Australia Dine239 7 YALUMBA WINE CO. Julius by Henschke is a good example of the style from the Eden Valley.
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