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SELECTING STABILIZERS When fabric is made, manufacturers don’t anticipate that anything will be added to it. When embroidering onto fabric, we’re adding weight and tension of thread and stitches. The fabric needs to be stronger and more “stable” to support the stitches - and that is why stabilizer is used with every embroidery project. If the fabric isn’t stabilized properly, you’ll see subpar results. You might find shifting and gapping, puckering, or dimpling for example. Choosing the right type of fabric and stabilizer for your design is the key to getting great results. To insure optimum embroidery results, hoop the stabilizer as tightly as possible. These designs need to have a steady base. We also suggest doing a test with your brand of stabilizer to be sure you like the results. Light stitch designs are designs that have very few stitches in them. Light stitch designs have less than 15,000 stitches. Folded fabric designs and free motion designs fall into this category as well. Medium stitch designs are designs with 15,000-40,000 stitches. That category includes most of the Mix & Match designs. All of these type of designs only require one layer of No-show Mesh Stabilizer. Heavy stitch designs are designs with more than 40,000 stitches. Use two layers of No-show Mesh and you may also need to back the fabric with fusible interfacing. Fusible interfacing will eliminate puckering and distortion in your embroidery designs. A medium weight iron-on woven fusible such as Pellon Ultra-Weft 860F works well. Avoid thick craft interfacing because it will make the fabric too thick. To use the interfacing, simply iron it on to the back of the entire piece of fabric and use as normal. You will notice an improvement right away.


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