A packet of rice, onions, peppers, and saffron to add sass started it all. Seventy years later, sales of the little yellow rice packages are still one of Vigo Importing Company’s top three best sellers. That’s no small feat since the business’s product line tops 800 items. Alfred Alessi and Tony Alessi Jr., who follow in the steps of parents, Antonio “Tony” and Rosalie Alessi, carry on an oldworld meets-new tradition at their Italian food “manufactory.’’ Call it Ground Zero for a huge array of Italian, Mediterranean and global groceries that you crave. With Italian food ranking among the world’s favorite cuisine, the company’s plethora of prized pastas, olive oils, sauces, soups, spices, vinegars, and rice are produced in ten buildings that sprawl two city blocks in the Tampa International Airport area. Tony’s daughter Laura Alessi DeLucia, who serves as marketing director, says her grandparents signify the great American dream, while her father and uncle, who seem to have reversed the clock, continue to be integral to their business. “They’re here every day at 9 a.m. sharp, always immaculately dressed, and basically here all day,’’ says Laura. Perhaps it is the health benefits of all that tasty Italian olive oil that keep the brothers looking so fit. Alfred is 74 and proud of it, and Tony will be 82. “They are both fabulous,” adds DeLucia. Her grandfather, Tony Sr., emigrated from San Biaggio, Sicily, to work as a cigar roller in Ybor City. He left cigars to work for the meat packing company Swift, offering to sweep floors, clean, or do about whatever. A fast learner, he grasped a business acumen that combined his dedicated work ethic and creative ambition to succeed. In 1947, as the country was rebuilding after the end of World War II, he followed a passion to go out on his own. He and his wife opened Central Provision Co. in a converted garage off Armenia Avenue in West Tampa. Neighbors liked his imported olives, cheeses and other products. Because Tony Sr. had such a good relationship with his previous employer, Swift allowed him to continue selling its salami, sausages and Mortadella (Italian bologna). As his customer count grew, Alessi expanded his product line. When an importer selling Vigo products went defunct, Tony Sr. bought the bargain-priced packaging materials. He used his newly acquired empty tins to hold a proven commodity— olive oil—to create a vital cooking standby. Vigo Importing Co. moved to Columbus Drive in 1955, and then moved to its present Comanche Avenue headquarters in the mid ‘60s. The Alessi brand is “all Italian,’’ says Alfred proudly about his family namesake line. It and the Vigo products line the aisles of Publix, Wal-Mart, Winn Dixie and a countless number of mom and pop stores. Because Italians love food and enjoy sharing a fine meal together, here are some of the company staples that could be called Nona-approved: Alessi Autentico Premium All-Natural Extra Virgin Olive Oil, for example, used on vegetables, fish or as a dipping sauce, is cold pressed, which means no heat is used to its extract oils, keeping the quality high and leaving less than one percent acidity. The extra virgin olive oil, rich in polyphenols, is a staple of the healthy Mediterranean diet. The importing company stores a whopping 436,000 gallons of olive oil in its tanks. Alessi sells three types of extra virgin, pure and extra light olive oil. Pure oil has a lighter flavor while extra light has little taste and can be better used in baking. Alessi’s dark, intensely flavored Balsamic vinegar is the company’s second most popular product. It’s aged for years to produce the perfect sweet, tart and "well-rounded" flavor. One building is devoted to stocking almost 48,000 gallons of vinegar, which age in nine huge wood barrels that hold 1,200 gallons each. Then there is the special White Wine Balsamic Vinegar, which Alfred worked on. He remembers discussing how traditional Balsamic vinegar discolors light foods such as cheese. “I wish there were a way to make a product with all the taste, but not the color,’’ the story goes. “The thinking cap went on and a process to develop such an item was born,’’ she adds. Alfred came up with the process to patent the condiment in 1994. About five years ago, its cousin was born—a line of sweet Balsamic vinegar reductions that punctuate pasta, meats, vegetables and more. There are few foods that wouldn’t improve by the addition of these sticky-sweet, aromatic grape PHOTOS COURTESY VIGO IMPORTING CO. SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017 localsDISH 23
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