�������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 47 music and dancing, laughter, teenage horseplay, and plenty of romance, which Cubans somehow distill into a more concentrated form. As far as must-see tourist destinations, I present El Morro. An impressive fortress perched on a high promontory across the harbor. El Morro was built in the 1500’s to protect Havana’s valuable trade routes. Besides a fascinating history, we enjoyed jaw-dropping views of Havana. Havana’s nightlife and food scenes were far better than I expected. I had one of the best meals of my life in Havana, and the best Mojito. But you have to do your homework because I also had some disappointing, overpriced meals. In the nightlife category do not miss trendy Fabrica de Arte Cubano. A labyrinthine mash-up of buildings containing randomly encountered bars, cafes, art installations, tiny fashion shops, performance venues, hidden VIP lounges and outdoor spaces. FAC attracts a mostly young, hip, urban crowd. It reminded me of unusual, trendy spots back in Brooklyn. To me, Fabrica represented the new Havana, a Havana of possibilities. The unexpected sleeper of the trip for me ended up being the people. I can’t recall traveling anywhere urban where people seemed so relaxed, warm and tolerant of tourists. In spite of pervasive poverty, the Cuban people generally seem content, accepting, and often just simply happy. In sweltering heat Cubans of all ages can be found taking in the goings-on from open doorways and balconies, conversing on street corners, going about their business at an unrushed pace. Asking for directions in very broken Spanish never resulted in attitude, just sincere attempts to send the gringo along in the right direction. For people with so little resources and wealth, they seem to have an abundance of perseverance, tolerance, and wisdom. The family in whose Casa Particular I stayed was more than I could have hoped for. My hosts made the freshest, most delicious breakfasts I’ve ever had. Incredibly helpful, the son, Alex, invited me along to fantastic bars and restaurants that I would never have found on my own. Mom and Dad were lovely and sincerely interested in me having a positive experience; it was in itself a highlight of the trip. Havana is compelling on so many levels, and also sad. It deserves better, as do the people. Tossed carelessly on stormy seas of political contests, economically strong- ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� allies and neighbors. You can feel the resign to this state of affairs, a collective 50-year-long-sigh, but also the response. Cubans keep going, applying their unique brand of Cuban ingenuity to getting by while sustaining the complex values and culture that distinguish the island’s people. For their part Cubans seem to be enjoying the new �������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� America and Americans, cautiously seeking opportunity. Although they were always taught we were the enemy they were near-perfect hosts. In the end, this is what travel is about at its best. Havana did not disappoint. I challenge you to experience Cuba with indifference; I don’t think it’s possible; Cuba inspires a passionate response. Havana won my heart.
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