Rye Renaissance
A beloved drink during the revolutionary era,
rye whiskey is witnessing a comeback
12 Dine239
Whistle Pig’s
BY MARK SPIVAK 10-year grain
Many Americans are aware Thomas Jefferson
was a wine connoisseur, but few realize George
Washington was a distiller. In fact, the father of
our country was the eighteenth-century equivalent
of Jack Daniels or Jim Beam. By 1799,
the year of Washington’s death, his distillery
produced 11,000 gallons, making it the largest
in the country. Rye remained popular until
Prohibition, when it practically vanished from
the landscape. It came roaring back during the
cocktail culture revival of the later twentieth
century. Bartenders were looking for spirits
that made a dramatic statement on the palate,
and the dry, spicy quality of rye was perfect. Today’s
consumer has different styles to choose
from, ranging from sturdy cocktail mixers to
luxury brands. Here are some favorites:
WHISTLE PIG: Entrepreneur Raj Peter Bhakta
bought a 500-acre farm in Vermont, hired former
Maker’s Mark master distiller Dave Pickerell,
and set out to create the country’s best rye.
Early versions, such as the 10-year-old ($80),
were blended and aged from purchased spirits,
but the recently released Farmstock ($90)
is made from organic rye grown on property.
At the high end of the scale, Bhakta sells the
12-year-old Boss Hog ($325) and an 11-year-old
version bottled at 111 proof ($700).
ANGEL’S ENVY ($85): The late, legendary
Lincoln Henderson, creator of Woodford Reserve
and Gentleman Jack, came out of retirement
to establish the Angel’s Envy brand. This
rye finishes its aging process with 18 months
in rum casks, giving a rich overlay to its smooth
and spicy texture. Only 2,500 cases were made,
but a bottle can be secured with a bit of effort.
BULLEIT SMALL BATCH ($28): In 1987,
Thomas E. Bulleit Jr. revived the recipe of his
great-great-grandfather Augustus, a tavern
keeper in 1830s Louisville who made “frontier
whiskey.” Composed of 95 percent rye and 5
percent malted barley, Bulleit mixes well in a
variety of cocktails and constitutes an exceptional
value. «
Located in Frankfort,
the capital of Kentucky,
Buffalo Trace distillery
makes Sazerac Rye, a
Louisiana favorite.
Angel’s Envy
tasting room