Dine239 17
The hierarchy today is far simpler: Crianza is
aged for two years, at least one in oak; Reserva
gets three years of aging, again with at least one
in oak; Gran Reserva spends two years in cask
and three years in bottle before release. The
following bodegas exemplify the fresher style
of Rioja.
MUGA (Haro): The most traditional bodega in
Rioja, Muga still fines with egg whites and has
its own cooperage facility on site. Offerings
range from a very good Reserva ($25) to superpremium
wines such as Torre Muga ($90)
and Aro ($165).
MARQUÉS DE RISCAL (Laguardia): The
City of Wine complex contains a luxury hotel,
several restaurants, and the space-age
winery building designed by Frank Gehry.
The wines are equally exciting, beginning
with the Reserva ($20) and Gran
Reserva ($50), and culminating in the
spectacular Baron de Chirel Reserva,
produced only in outstanding vintages
(most recently 2010, $80).
MARQUÉS DE MURRIETA (Logroño):
Founded in 1852 by Luciano Murrieta,
this bodega is where it all started. It is
known for making rich, concentrated
wines in a traditional style, most notably
the Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial
(2007, $85).
SEÑORIO DE SAN VICENTE: Located in the
tiny village of San Vicente de la Sonsierra and
owned by the Eguren family of Sierra Cantabria,
San Vicente was a pioneer label in the
super-premium Rioja category. The current
vintage (2013, $45) is 100-percent Tempranillo
from a single vineyard, aged in small French
oak barrels.
FINCA ALLENDE (Briones): Established in
1986, Allende relies on old Tempranillo vines
located in Rioja Alta, along with careful selection
and French oak aging. The entry-level
wine (2009, $25) displays balance, power,
and grace. At the top end of the scale, the
2010 Aurus ($165) is a blend of great intensity
and charm.
ARTADI (Logroño): Founded in 1985 by
an alliance of growers, Artadi today
comprises four estates. It is best known
for Viña El Pisón (2013, $305), grown
on a five-acre plot planted in 1945.
CONTADOR (San Vicente de la Sonsierra):
Benjamin Romeo produced his
first vintage in 1996, starting in the garage
of his parents’ home and eventually
building his own bodega. Robert
Parker awarded Romeo’s 2004 and
2005 vintages 100 points, and his most
recent release is 2012 ($345). «
Right: Marqués de Riscal’s
City of Wine facility is
an architectural marvel
located in Laguardia.