Reprinted dials or replacement of
a set of hands also have a
substantial effect on value! For a
1950s Rolex Submariner, the
value could easily drop from
$500,000 to less than $50,000 in
such instances. Usually a simple
test with a UV flashlight can
show a discrepancy between the
dial and the hands. For watches
made prior to 1963, testing the
radiation level with a Geiger
Counter can help detect if a
watch has been relumed with
paint that is not radioactive
enough.
Patek Philippe Yellow Gold Watch Circa 1946
Some watches such as Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantine had enamel printing on the dials prior to 1959.
The hardness of the enamel enabled the manufacturers to clean the dials with sandpaper during routine service.
This ‘cleaning,” however left vertical striations on the metal, which can also hurt the piece’s value.
Clearly, Investors looking to purchase a timepiece for Wealth Accumulation purposes should consider partnering
with a knowledgeable broker when considering a major purchase.
AN EXPERT’S GUIDE TO SIGNED JEWELLERY
Christie’s Senior International Jewellery Director David Warren explains why pieces featuring the signature of top
brands attract serious collectors worldwide.
What is signed jewellery?
Signed jewellery indicates the name of the jewellery house
or maker with an engraving on the underside of the piece
or the inside of a ring. Jewellery makers began signing
their work during the Arts & Crafts and Art Nouveau
periods, from about 1860 onwards. An early instance is
Rene Lalique, who always signed his work. The practice
was popularized in the 20th century, when all the top
jewelers and many small ateliers began applying their
signatures to their jewellery.
Is signed jewellery more valuable than unsigned
jewellery?
Generally, yes. If it is one of the top makers, a signature
can add 50, 100 or even 300 per cent to the value.
Christie’s jewellery specialist David Warren recalls seeing
a bracelet from the 1920s – an attractive and slightly
unusual design – that had been estimated some years earlier at €8,000 to €12,000. After a great deal of
scrutinizing, Warren discovered what appeared to be remnants of ‘Van’ from a Van Cleef & Arpels signature. A
photograph was sent to the company, which confirmed and precisely dated the piece. The bracelet turned out to be
a rare example from the much sought after Art Deco period and subsequently sold for €250,000, with premiums.
3
Vacheron Constantine Traditionelle 14-Day
Tourbillon “Dragon”
Cartier Tutti Frutti Bracelet Circa 1928