Another type of bitless bridle
has a basic noseband structure, and is operated by a
contact made through the reins, but instead of having
the horse avoid the pressure, the goal is to have him
move in the direction of the tension applied. There are
two basic designs that work in this manner and differ in
terms of how the reins are going to contact the horse’s
head and direct it. The side-pull style and all its variations
have the reins attached to the sides of a nose band. The
cross-under style by Dr Cook still has a noseband, but
the reins are also attached to two additional parts of the
headstall that cross under the jaw line, and link to the
main piece connecting with the crown band. The cross
under band sends the horse a more detailed input in
terms of direction.
In side pulls and Dr cook’s bridles the proper fit of the
nose band is critical, because it keeps the bridle from
slipping around the horse’s face and possibly touching his
eyes. The correct noseband does not need to fit tightly,
otherwise it can confuse the horse by causing continuous
pressure that distracts him from the time when the rider
applies the contact.
A common problem to using any kind of bitless bridle
can be mouth sores, caused by the contact of the buccal
mucosa that hits on sharp teeth in the area under the
nose band if it is too tightly strapped around the horse’s
head. This is a problem that can happen regardless of
the kind of bitless bridle, but can be easily avoided with
side pull or cross under types, where the noseband is just
loosely sitting around the face of the horse.
If we learn how to be detailed and precise in our contact,
we do not rely on the strength of the pressure applied,
we can efficiently modulate our communication,
and having a bitted or a bitless bridle becomes a preference
or discipline requirement. The choice we make can
actually add to the wellbeing of our horse.
EE Elite Equestrian does not endorse or confirm content suggestions in any articles. See credit page for disclaimer.
Full height doors with ramp door open
increased the number of rear collisions. Full height doors
solve this problem, and since they are hinged to both
sides of the trailer, tough, heavy constructed doors can
be easily opened and shut. If a handler stands away from
the door while closing it, most likely, it will just fly out of a
handler’s hand if kicked.
With the doors doing the job of rear protection, a ramp
can be installed behind the doors that can be light
weight (easy to lift), and if low angle, safely assists horses
stepping in and out of the trailer. But the other primary
safety benefit is that the risk of handlers getting kicked is
eliminated since the doors have to be closed before the
ramp can be raised or lowered – a failsafe system since
no thought is required. (see Full Doors with Ramp, top
photo, previous page)
SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ON LOADING
Full Doors With Assist Ramp
behind the open door. When the horse is inside the trailer,
stay behind the ditch side door, swing the divider over to
the middle, then lift the butt bar into place. Reach over
and release the latching pin that locks the butt bar in
place. Step back down from the ramp, release the road
side door from the tie back, walk the door to the center
latch staying well away from the door in case it’s kicked.
2. Load the horse on the ditch side while standing behind
the closed road side door. When the horse is inside, raise
the butt bar, then reach over and drop the pin in place
while staying behind the closed road side door.
3. With both doors secured, you can take your time to
raise the ramp and latch it in place without worries of you
or the ramp getting kicked.
This configuration works most efficiently with butt bars that
easily slip into the latches and are designed to prevent
horses from backing out before they are fully secured.
EE
1. Load the road side (driver’s side) horse while standing
on the ramp towards the ditch side (passenger side)
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