TYBEE BEACHCOMBER | JAN 2019 7
By Allie Hayser
1. Get Out and Surf More. This one is a CLASSIC. Many resolutions are
set to go swimming, surfing, or just go to the beach more in the next year.
Maybe you think, “It’s a shame I don’t go to the beach more when I live
so close.” Do yourself a favor and just go see the ocean for a few minutes
every day. Watch more sunsets at Alley 3, surf a sunrise by the pier, or
dance in the full moon on the beach. Get out and enjoy the beauty of Tybee
Island this year. People who live by the sea are typically happier and more
harmonious to be around.
That also goes for many of the surfers I’ve known in my life. Without
saltwater therapy, surfers can get irritable, making all of these excuses
to deny themselves the magical feel of a surf session, and can feel really
off-balance and unhappy. Paddle out when you need it! Let yourself “get
worked” in some swirly mess of a winter storm, get crunched in a little
sandy beach break, or have the cleanest and glassiest session of your
life… you may need it. For the surfers starting out this winter/spring, if
you get out and surf at any chance you get, you will undeniably progress
faster and feel so much better by the time summer comes around. Wetsuit
season is like wearing resistance bands all over your body and come late
spring you will be in great shape from all of the paddling and pop-ups
you’ve been doing!
2. Take Trips. Pack the car with your favorite people and boards and find
some good surf! It’s easier to make it down to Tybee and surf for a few
hours on the regular than it is to read the reports and road trip to a new
surf break, but a change of scenery and consistent waves makes it all
worth it. For those who want less of a commitment: Go to Folly and surf the
wash-out in SC. Trip down to Florida and hit Mayport Poles, Huguenot State
Park, Flagler, Jacksonville, Little Talbot, or Hanna Park. Head to southern
NC and surf Wrightsville Beach or Carolina Beach. For those of you who
are in it for the whole weekend: Drive up and out to the outer banks of
NC (Jennette’s Pier, Cape Hatteras, Waves, Kitty Hawk). Hit some more
southern spots in Florida like New Smyrna, Cocoa Beach, Ponce Inlet, or
Sebastian Inlet.
For those of you who are all in and have been dreaming all year: Get
a passport! Personally, I think everyone needs to go to Nicaragua (ask
me for details), Costa Rica, Hawaii, Portugal, Australia, El Salvador, Peru,
California. Anywhere! Get a group of your friends together and go in on a
house together for a week or two. Experience new worlds doing what you
love.
3. Spread the Stoke. Teach that friend that is always asking you to go
out. Surfers have a really hard time being able to tear themselves away
from catching waves. So this year, teach a pal or two how to surf. It passes
along all of the magical vibes you still feel today when you catch a wave.
Many of us say that surfing saved our lives, healed our souls, or made our
lives better… share that and make someone else’s better too.
Buy surf lessons from a local surf school. This can be really valuable to
those who are brand new to surfing, but also for those who know how to
surf and are stuck in a “plateau” or “rut” and can’t seem to progress past
a point in their surfing. Surf coaches can paddle out with you, catch your
little unknowing habits, help you focus on making the right corrections,
and change the game completely. If you aren’t feeling a surf camp, talk to
your buddies and have them start keeping an eye out for things you can
improve on. Having feedback from my surf fam out there has helped me
get over so many little plateaus in my surfing.
Another way to spread the stoke is to call a friend when the waves are
good! Many surfers in the local community don’t live out on the island, so
if you drive down and know it’s good, give them a heads up! Plus, you can
enjoy a post-session with your friends that become your surf family. You
can dissect the session, talk about improvements and moments that felt
magical, and share how “awesome” your day was with a person who was
able to be out there rather than ruffle the feathers of those who couldn’t
make it. Grab a beer or coffee, get some sunshine or salty stormy air, and
slow down this year. Life happens and we don’t want to live in the future
all year, thinking of the things we should be doing or what is next, so be
present in your surfing and in all you love to do!
4. Share Supplies. I always leave the house forgetting something...
especially when it’s a beach or surf day. Maybe your goal is to remember
everything you’ll need, or better yet... bring enough to share. Wax is the
cheapest surf accessory to buy, and yet we lose it, forget it, and don’t
find the time to buy more. So when you buy or bring wax, tuck an extra
in there for the friends who’ve been letting you have some last year. Pack
an extra leash for those sick days where you or a pal may break a leash
out in the surf. When your leash breaks and the waves are still so good,
it is the kindest thing in the world when your friend offers you their extra!
Replace and surf on!
Another way to share this year can be letting your friends keep their
boards at your house, or helping them hog tie them to your/their car to get
to the surf faster. I’ve been lucky that when I don’t have room in my car for
a longboard, when I’m randomly driving a car without a Tybee sticker, or
I’m hightailing it on my beach cruiser, a friend has helped get my board to
the beach. So rad and so nice! Buy them some wax or extra supplies this
year to give back a little!
Last thing I’d like to mention is to go support your local shapers in the
New Year. There are a handful of talented shapers that are working and
investing time into making boards that are particularly amazing for our
surf break! They can help you figure out what kind of board you would
progress on, allow you to add some kind of personal touch, and trust
them with some creative freedom to design your dream board. I am still
pinching pennies over here, but y’all should reach out and learn about their
techniques and how to order your own custom board! Supporting the surf
community is the most respected and personable thing you can do to keep
the stoke and local-love alive.
5. Physical Fitness/Cross Training. In order to last long out there on a
choppy day in a wetsuit, you need to be “surf fit,” toning all of the muscles
you use during your session, as well as helping them recover and release
afterwards. Yoga is great for flexibility, balance, and helping you achieve
less achy feels after a long session. For those of you who aren’t able to do a
complete yoga class or make time to get on the mat, stretching before you
paddle out does wonders. Take spin classes, run, get out and skateboard,
lift some weights, find a pool and do some laps… all of these will only help
you out there in the water and even avoid injury.
6. Environment Lovins’. Last but not least... make a healthy impact on
the environment! Whether it is participating in beach clean-ups, supporting
the plastic bag bans and other environmentally friendly movements,
carpooling to surf sessions to save gas, or reaching out to support charities.
Maybe you want to start wearing ocean friendly sunscreen like Avasol,
using reusable water bottles, buying sustainable swimwear, or focusing
on recycling and composting. So many little things you can do. Maybe it
can be overwhelming to you that so much more can be done and there are
even more people out there not doing their part… but pick somewhere
to start and invite your friends to hop on the bandwagon. As for surf and
ocean charities, I’d recommend looking into: Surfrider, Waves For Water,
SurfAid, WildCoast, Surfers for Autism, and Surfers Healing.
2019 is for Surfers and Water Lovers