TYBEE BEACHCOMBER | APRIL 2018 7
By Allie Hayser
SPRINGTIME SURFIN’
The times are a-changin, more daylight for everyone, and the weather
is thawing out. It’s the perfect time of year to grab that surfboard sitting
in the shed and hit the ocean. The water temperatures will be getting
up to the mid-60s soon, and surf spots on the east coast will get more
frequenters, people rising out of the pollen, and the lineup starting to
fill in with ole pals and new learners. The things that you will need
are: Winter (3mm) wetsuit for another month, Spring (2-3mm short
sleeved/legged) wetsuit, Cool Water Surf Wax for temps 58°F - 68°F,
Sun Protection (my favorite: AvaSol) … and Surf Etiquette!
Surf Etiquette:
Lineup: Where, What?
This is where the waves will normally start breaking or finish
forming so you can catch a ride. You’ll sit out here, alongside others,
waiting for the priority position for the next rideable wave. The priority
position is the closest to the actual breaking wave peak. Make sure you
aren’t sitting on the “inside” (area between the lineup and the sand) of
another surfer waiting for a wave - try to stagger! The surfer closest to
the peak has the right of way!
Paddling Out: Go Time
When paddling out to the lineup, it’s respectful of others and in your
best interest to stay out of the area where people are catching rides.
You may not be able to paddle fast enough out of the way, they may not
be able to control the board out of your way, and then boom! So paddle
out to the left or right of where the “peak” is and then, when out far
enough, paddle sideways into the lineup. Waves are crashing on you,
over you, in your face, knocking your board, and the current is working.
Do the “Turtle Roll” or “Duckdive” to get past these obstacles.
A Turtle Roll is completed by paddling straight at oncoming
whitewash (broken waves), lying on the board flat, grabbing the rails
of the surfboard slightly towards the nose, pulling down slightly and
flipping over- thus allowing the wave to wash over and by the bottom
of your board facing up. Duck-diving is great for shorter boards where
you can grab the rails at your chest, push down with all of your weight
to get the nose deep, and once deep, follow through using your foot to
push the tail of your board down as the wave passes completely over
you. The successful rate of these maneuvers depends on your form, the
timing of the wave, and the timing of your motions.
To Take or Not To Take: Wave Choices
This is the million dollar question! Wave reading and picking out the
perfect wave and having the perfect timing takes your whole surfing
life to work on and appreciate. Then you visit a new break with different
geology and swells ... and you may feel like you are starting to learn it
all over again. It’s the challenge that most of us out there thoroughly
enjoy about surfing. Most surfers in the lineup have experience riding
a wave in specific directions “down the line” of the wave face. Pay
attention to who is going which way, if some people prefer certain
ways, and you’ll get an idea of where you should try to take off and
direct yourself towards. Also, this is a great practice in being self-aware
by being observant. Observing others taking off on waves, popping up,
communicating which direction they plan to take out loud, and asking
questions will give you perspective and may even help you learn faster
than trying to get everything right on your own. Sharing waves is ... a
thing. But it’s a thing that you plan on with your friend, or you’d call
out and make sure you are not dropping in or cutting the person off.
Some waves rebuild themselves down the beach further than the rider,
but be careful to make sure you allow them to catch the best and least
disturbed wave that they worked for. This kind of communication with
each other on can be so helpful for the vibes out in the water.
Wipeouts
Keep this part simple: Cover your head and never abandon your
board. Fiberglass, epoxy, and fins are much tougher than your skin and
wetsuit combined. When you cover your head, you are protecting your
face and brain from possible impact of a rogue flying board in your
wipeout. Others can get hurt too if you allow your board to fly or tumble
in the whitewash of the wave. Wearing a leash is helpful when it comes
to control, not chasing your board down the beach, and protecting
others ... but it’s not enough. Try to always have a grip or hand on your
board. Be aware of others paddling out on the inside of the lineup. You
tend to go where you look, so if you don’t wanna hit that lil kid with his
swimmies, look the other way!
“Kook?” Me?!
According to the ‘Encyclopedia of Surfing’ by Matt Warshaw, a
KOOK is a timeless derogatory surfing term, generally applied to rank
beginners, but also used for any surfer thought to be in violation of
surfing’s complex unwritten code of conduct; a world champion
paddling out to a surf break for the first time and dropping in on a local,
for example, would be shouted down as a ‘KOOK’ (my personal least
favorite word of them all). At one point, we have all been beginners or
had a buddy take us under their wing and teach us the way of the surf
break. So just communicate, give benefit of the doubt with a lil shred
of patience, while wearing a smile and open yourself to learning how
to be respectful and self-aware, but also on the flip-side, to teaching or
giving direction to some who may not have the memo quite yet without
the demeaning vibes.
We are all learnin’ or groovin’ out there. It’s all about the community,
waves, saltwater, the wipeouts, sandy closeouts, sunshine, rides of the
day, trading boards, and feeling good. I appreciate the time y’all, see ya
next month!